Pretty much the current IT-preservative. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). Research shows that problem skin has lower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. Estée Lauder Perfectionist CP+R Wrinkle Lifting Firming Serum minimizes the look of wrinkles, improves firmness and evens the complexion. It's an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. It also has strong de-tackifying and anti-caking properties. Anyhow, the point is this; there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. An in-vivo (done on real people) test done by the manufacturer shows that Zinc PCA reduces sebum production statistically significantly after 28 days of application (1% was used in the test), and in-vitro (made in the lab) measurements show that Zinc PCA has strong anti-microbial activity against P. acnes (between 0.1-0.25%) and other bacterial strains. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Though chamomile is usually a goodie for the skin, it's also not uncommon to have an allergic reaction to it. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning"  by our cells) and stimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. According to manufacturer info, its big advantage is that it's compatible both with other silicones and with natural plant oils, so it's a great ingredient to formulate products with good-sounding, consumer-pleasing vegetable oils but still maintain a cosmetically elegant, non-greasy and non-tacky feel. It is often derived from fish or bovine sources and works as a nice moisturizer and humectant that helps the skin to hold onto water. Though its name does not reveal it, this molecule is a relative of famous IT-moisturizer, Hyaluronic Acid. This reformulation of Lauder’s former Perfectionist [CP+] adds an “R” to the product name but otherwise not much has changed. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. A real oldie but a goodie. The most common skincare ingredient of all. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5% Minoxidil  (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that  "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approved Minoxidil stuff. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Please read our terms of use here. The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water binding capacity, i.e. Sodium chloride is the fancy name of salt. You probably know yeast from the kitchen where you put it into milk with a little sugar and then after a couple of minutes brownish bubbles form. A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. Can you guess what? We have to admit that Algae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". A smallish polymer molecule (created from repeated units of Polyethylene glycol, aka PEG) that's used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. It also works as a stable delivery system of active materials, has sebum absorption and control properties and upon application, it transforms into a matte appearance with a powdery after feel. The official description in the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredient listing is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Shop Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+R 30ml. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea, the Middle East, central and southern Russia. – ggf. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers say about their algae. The theory is that it can inhibit the activity of the 5-α-reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair loss and allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. The biologically most active components of the resin are boswellic acids that have anti-inflammatory properties. A white powdery thing that's the major component of glass and sand. It is claimed to boost the production of important extracellular matrix components (the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagen I and fibronectin. Perfectionist [ CP + R ], Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum - Reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used as moisturizing and thickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well as working as an antimicrobial. Az arc vonásait és kontúrjait határozottabbá és feszesebbá varázsolja. Cosmetic companies use it mainly for its anti-inflammatory properties. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. The biggest compliment we can pay to the venerable Estee Lauder line is that their moisturizers and serums can largely be described as state-of-the-art. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. A common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together, aka emulsifier. It's useful as a complementary treatment for rosacea, keeping the skin hydrated and it's also a super nice addition to any sunscreen product thanks to its unique UV-protecting abilities. Note: a 1.7-ounce size is also available; it retails for $95. It's a common synthetic antioxidant that's used as a preservative.There is some controversy around BHT. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. The most active part is called glabridin. 20 is a weak emulsifier, rather called solubilizer used commonly in toners while 60 and 80 are more common in serums and creams. It's also great for cleansing dirt and oil from the skin as well as for taking off make-up. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. 4,8 von 5 Sternen 137 Sternebewertungen. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated  (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize it and has to take it from food. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. The manufacturer did several studies to prove that Argireline really works and it does (just not as well as Botox). Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Details: Preise inkl. ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist [CP+R] Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum, Main, color, NO COLOR. Don't forget, excess collagen production is the basis of many scars, including surgical incision scars and deep wounds. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Please read our terms of use here. It’s definitely a smart thing to avoid with sensitive skin (and fragrance of any type - natural is just as allergic as synthetic, if not worse!). It's a nice one to spot on the ingredient list pretty much for any skin type. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. The yeast extract itself is a silky clear liquid that has some great moisturizing, skin protecting and film-forming properties on the skin. To solve the stability issue, the cosmetic industry is coming up with derivatives and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a newish version created by a Korean company. It’s a solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. :). Shop online today. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. Thanks to its water-binding ability, it also prevents the drying out of formulas, especially when combined with the fellow hygroscopic agent, sorbitol. The chemically chopped up version of the big protein molecule, collagen. 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